Catrico was an amazing experience. I am reflecting on: living commune style with people from around the world, Illani, Gusto, Valentina, and Emmita, Snuggling llamas, rising horses, teaching yoga to men working through an intense year of drug and alcohol rehab, hiking to the hill that overlooks the farm where on a clear day the volcano is visible, hiking (barely) Volcan Villarrica, the most amazing sunsets I have ever seen ...
Only a few days spent in Santiago, but I was generally happy with this sprawling, enormous city. The metro system was, luckily, fairly easy to navigate. Illani, the owner of the farm in Catrico, was kind enough to offer her house in an ecological community just outside of the city. It's an amazing idea as opposed to the suburbs sprouting up in every direction. Just past the entrance where Eco shops feature expensive clothing and food, dirt roads lead to a sustainable housing complex. Although the properties are laid out similarly to suburbs, many parcels of land contain two or more houses with gardens and chickens. Caught up with friends, Carlos and Natalie, fellow travelers that I hadn't seen since Ecuador. A great night out exploring the night life, followed by a day of recovery, and then headed further north to one of my favorite cities visited this trip.
This is one place I would recommend to almost anyone looking to travel to the west coast of South America. Located approximately one hour north of Santiago, Valparaiso has something for everyone and awakens creativity. Every possible building surface and even the stairs are covered in artwork. I loved, of course, being surrounded by amazing restaurants, many of which incorporated local and farm grown ingredients. Neighboring Viña del Mar provides a more touristy resort feel.
My third day in Valpo, I escaped the hundreds of mural covered stairwells and steep climbs of the cerros to feel the sand on my feet and seaspray in my face. I wandered for hours by bus and on foot, staring at sand dunes, watching pelicans dive for fish, composing music to the sound of the waves crashing. I knew more ocean was in my immediate future.
Taking a piece of Valpo and Viña with me, and many more hours of travel, brought me to Caleta de Chanard de Aceituno, a small fishing village that thrives off of tourism for a few months of the year. The good graces of Illani made this stay possible as she also owns a house on the outskirts of town. Another phenomenally constructed sustainable house where the sound of waves lulled me to sleep more than I care to admit. But a sweetly perfect way to end my time in Chile.
-B
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